A Nice Warm Feeling in Morecambe by Man in a Hat

 

 

 

A Nice Warm Feeling in Morecambe

Accommodation in Morecambe was booked before the season even kicked off, with an international cast, including Irish, Welsh and Brummie.

 

What we couldn’t foresee was the train strike by the drivers at Transpennine and Northern, the only train companies we needed, on the exact day we needed them.

 

This meant that Fintan had no means of getting from Manchester Airport to Morecambe, and I had no way of getting to Morecambe either. Phil could drive from Wales ok and could probably have also gotten the train if he wanted, as Transport for Wales weren’t on strike.

 

So, after being bribed with haggis and white pudding, Sam ended up driving from Birmingham via Manchester Airport to pick up Fintan and then via Denton to pick me up. We’d meet Phil in the Kings Arms near the Travelodge where we were all staying in Morecambe.

 

Furthermore, when the 2024 Good Beer Guide was published, it revealed just 3 pubs listed for Morecambe, one of which was the Wetherspoons, so we intended to spend Sunday in Lancaster, which has 5 pubs in the guide, not to mention about another 25 to go at.

 

This being the case, we had decided to stay over at the Sun in Lancaster Sunday night, rather than return to Morecambe for no good reason.

 

Everything Goes to Plan (yawn)!

 

This morning, I’m wearing my 2008 Wembley polo-shirt, my County scarf, and of course the Bobbleless Blue.

 

Remarkably, everything goes to plan, and we arrive in Morecambe mid-afternoon, and settle in at the Kings Arms awaiting Phil’s arrival. Even the car is safely parked up near the hotel.

 

This is a huge Greene King pub and presumably used to be a posh Victorian Hotel. The beer, Rocking Rudolph is extraordinarily good.

 

The chap behind the bar is really helpful, and by the time Phil arrives we’ve already completed our first real-ale loyalty card, which is duly cashed in. Advice is provided on where to find good real ale in Morecambe.

 

 

 

Serial County hard-core Caz and Andy show up, who thanks to the train strike, travelled up Thursday, and are booked into a local B&B.

 

Time enough to try the Hobgoblin before setting off to find a micro bar called Embargo, which is just along the front. The ale is once again excellent.

 

On the way, we encounter Eric Morecambe.

 

Caz and Andy also tag along, and we find one of my favourite ales in Embargo, the brilliant Jarl by Fyne Ales. I’ve never seen this side of Andy!

 

 

The plan this evening is to eat in a “village” called Bare, where there are 3 pubs very close to each other, one of which does food, and another of which is in the Good Beer Guide. I order a taxi through the friendly bar staff, who happens to live in Bare. You can’t beat a bit of local knowledge.

 

Barely Standing

 

After a very short journey (we probably could have walked) we arrive at the Dog and Partridge and manage to find a table to eat. I’m having the corned beef pie and mash, washed down with a pint of Singletrack, brewed by Kirkby Lonsdale, which I score as being very good.

 

Although the Dog and Partridge is food-led, it’s a very enjoyable pub.

 

The Little Bare micro bar is in the Good Beer Guide, and the beer is excellent. Dark Winter from Mobberley.

 

Our final stop of the night is the Owl’s Nest, where we find live music. The band have a play-list, so you just request whatever you want from the list, via text (or in my case a scrap of paper, which I throw onto the drum). This leads to us singing along to “Starman” (wearing number 9 of course), This Town Ain’t Big Enough…., 500 Miles and I Fought the Law…..

 

Tambourines, shakers and what-not are on each table, and Fintan is a very enthusiastic participant in the percussion section of the band, i.e. the audience. 

 

Taxi back to the hotel.

 

That should have been game over, and it was for Phil and Sam, but Fintan wants to check out the Wetherspoons before turning in, so in we go. Fintan has lifted one of the shakers from the Owl’s Nest and is still vigorously shaking it at every opportunity.

 

I try one of Wetherspoons “Twelve Ales of Christmas” Three Kings brewed by Coach House, and it is fair to middling.

 

The pub is called the Eric Bartholomew and is dedicated to all things Morecambe, and to a lesser extent, Wise. Apparently Eric was born a Bartholomew in Morecambe and adopted the name of his home town as his stage name. How come I never knew that?

 

No other County Supporters are spotted before we call it a night.

 

Wetherspoons Patron Gassed

 

The following morning, we head for Rita’s Café, just along the front, for breakfast, as recommended by Fintan, and jolly good it is too. I’m wearing my standard issue grey County sweatshirt.

 

I resist ordering the liver or turkey curry, and settle for a more traditional full English, all well done. The bacon is so crispy I have to pick it up with my fingers - perfect! One of my slices of fried bread is a crust! It doesn’t get any better than this. 

 

Some of the Blue Army are wandering up and down the front, no doubt getting the obligatory photo with Eric’s statue which is just opposite.

 

So we head out to do the same and have a little wander on the beach, where I collect some shells. 

 

A couple of local Policemen are doing the rounds in the Eric Bartholomew, and inform us that around 2,000 County Supporters are expected. Blimey! 

 

 

This morning, I’m kicking off with the Winter Wisp brewed by Oakham, which you may recall was also on in one of the Wetherspoons in Swindon. Very nice.

 

As you’d expect, plenty of County in here, even this early. 

 

 

We’re sat next to the Accessible Toilet, so I demonstrate one of the tricks I’ve learned through performing my parental caring duties, namely that you can open the door with a twenty pence piece.

 

To my horror, I can hear that someone is inside, so I beat a hasty retreat back to our table. Thankfully, the lady who exits the toilet doesn’t realise it was me who nearly exposed her performance to an increasingly busy pub.

 

May as well make full use of the facilities myself being as I’ve opened the door. An elderly gentleman follows me in after a lengthy wait, he really should have left it 5 minutes.

 

When we leave about 15 minutes later, he still hasn’t re-emerged. I feel that I should perhaps alert the authorities, but we’ve got a bus to catch, and it looks like the Police are already onto me. 

 

 

As we walk along the front to find the number 6 bus to our next pub, we pass some of the designated County pubs, the Kings and the Royal.

 

 

£5.50 for an all-day ride on the bus.

 

Potatoes 1, Meat 0

 

The Exchange isn’t in the Good Beer Guide, but sounded interesting on CAMRA’s website whatpub.com, and it was also on the way to the ground, hence it’s on our list.

 

The Mihi from Butcombe was excellent. The place is full of County, many of whom I gather are staying over. 

 

 

This is a multi-screen sports venue. We have Palace vs. Liverpool on most screens and Sunderland vs. West Brom on others. I don’t get exposed to much Premiership football, and the 5 minutes it takes to resolve a VAR decision, convinces me that I’m not missing much.

 

Our final pre-match stop is at the Hurley Flyer, directly behind the away end, which we reach on the bus.

 

As you’d expect, the place is crammed with the Blue Army, including our award winning groundsman, Cashy.

 

 

The beer is adequate, Marston’s Pedigree.

 

As we head into the stadium, the weather is horrendous, almost as windy as Nuneaton. 

 

 

The locals have recommended the Chicken and Ham pies, but there are none left, so it’s meat and potato for us. Hello! Calling the meat, please come out, where are you? Make yourself known. Only the potatoes responded. 

 

 

Due to the conditions, the game is a total pantomime farce and ends in a draw, meaning that the record of the Bobbleless Blue is now played 14; won 11; drawn 3, remaining unbeaten.

 

At the final whistle, we find the toilets in the ground closed. And, on top of that, we’re all frogmarched the full perimeter of the stadium before being allowed to go on our way. Why? None of the stewards seem to know.

 

A Nice Warm Feeling

 

The plan post-game, is to spend the evening at the Torrisholme Taps micro-pub, the third and final Good Beer Guide pub in Morecambe. I say in Morecambe, but we have to take another short bus journey to get there. Morecambe is so sprawly!

 

We find other Members of The Blue Army have had the same idea. 

 

During the evening, we work our way through the menu, which includes: Elgood’s Plum Porter; Muirhouse Brewhouse Pale, and the DDH from Mason Bridge. My favourite though, was the Best of British from Elgood’s

We indulge in a communal pork pie, with rhubarb and orange chutney, and then another with chilli jam. All local produce and excellent. The best pub in Morecambe.

 

It’s still early really, so we’re going to try one last pub, the Masons, which is near the hotel. This involves another bus journey, so we’ve certainly had our money’s worth from our All Day Ride ticket.

 

Whilst waiting at the bus stop, Sam decides to disappear behind it, which results in him gently warming up Phil’s feet, which does not go down well, I can tell you.

 

We’re all friends again by the time we reach the Masons, where I try the Moola from Tiny Rebel, which is very good. 

 

Good grief, we’re still not done, so it’s back to Embargo, well, all except Sam. The Nervous Turkey from Ossett, is a very nice conclusion to the evening, as is finding that we are not alone. Plenty more present celebrating County being a point further clear at the top.     

 

A Nice Paddle Near the Lancaster Canal

 

As you know, we’re heading to Lancaster today, although Sam is off home to Birmingham to see one of his many children in a pantomime. Hey, I just thought, why are pantomimes so noisy? That makes no sense at all. Stupid language, no wonder I failed English Language.

 

We we’re going to set off at 10am, but as the EFL Show doesn’t finish until 10:30, our departure is delayed. The TV coverage of the game does no justice as to what conditions were actually like. You had to be there.

 

I’m in full CAMRA mode today, so I’m wearing my bright yellow Cornwall CAMRA polo-shirt.

 

We’re soon in Lancaster, and leaving our bags at the Sun where we’ll be staying. The Sun has 10 real ales. This trip could easily be the death of me. 

 

 

Breakfast first at the Old Bell, where Fintan has to be taught how to pour his tea. Another excellent recommendation from Fintan, and another brilliant full English to set me up for the day.

 

The plan is to visit the 5 Lancaster pubs listed in the 2024 Good Beer Guide. Why waste time deciding where to go when the local CAMRA Members have already told us their top 5?

 

That said, our first target isn’t in the Guide, it’s the Water Witch on the towpath of the Lancaster Canal. The reason for this is that it’s the furthest out, and we can then work our way back to the Sun to check in via others.

 

What a great choice (by me). I’m allowed a paddle, not in the canal, but 3 thirds of different beers, my favourite way to enjoy cask conditioned real ale. 

 

 

My 3 beers are: Mr Cat by Handsome; Lancaster’s Cascade, and Pal from Gan Yam. These are all great, but the Mr Cat just shades it as my favourite of the 3. 

 

 

Better get started on the Good Beer Guide pubs. Just up the canal is the White Cross where I enjoy the excellent Castlerigg Blonde from Tirril. 

 

 

Although food-led, both the Water Witch and the White Cross have a great selection of ales. Just a shame the latter did not offer paddles.

 

Our second Good Beer Guide pub is the Corner House, a huge soulless venue akin to a nightclub that is waiting to open. Very late opening hours over the weekends. As the red velvet rope is yet to be deployed, we sit in the VIP area.

 

What a strange place to put into the Good Beer Guide, particularly in Lancaster which has getting on for 40 venues competing for 5 spots. Hold on though, the ale is excellent (Monumental from Kirkby Lonsdale), so fair enough. Just goes to show you, it’s all about the beer. Any venue can get into the Guide if the ale is good enough.

 

As we leave, an old guy is unenthusiastically playing his guitar in a way that reeks of “how did I end up having to work in a place like this Sunday afternoons”.

 

Before checking into the Sun, we can try Kanteena, not in the Guide, but an interesting venue in some yard or other, that serves 5 real ales, and has street-food.

 

Although it’s way past the published opening time of 2pm, we find the huge Steptoe and Son style gates firmly locked. What a shame there won’t be time to come back later.

 

Time to check in at the Sun. The rooms are fantastic. Phil has been upgraded. Not sure how I’m going to cope with the shower though. 

 

 

I christen the place with the Lancaster Black, which is very good. This is by far the busiest place so far.   

   

Let There be Cheese

 

Our next Good Beer Guide pub is the Jailor’s Barrel, just around the corner, which does food, which is good as I’m ready to eat again.

 

The beer was ok, the Loweswater Gold brewed by Cumbrian Ales, probably not quite up to Good Beer Guide standard.

 

What is better is the food. Chicken Tikka pie with sides of onions and cheese. Yes, a side of grated cheese. Why don’t more places recognise that the only foodstuff that can’t be improved by putting cheese on it, is cheese itself. 

 

 

Fintan wants to stay, so there’s time for Zenith, brewed by Cross Bay, which is better than the first ale I tried.

 

Off to the train station now, platform 3 to be precise, where we’ll find Tite and Lock, another Good Beer Guide pub. This opened post-pandemic is very nice. The bar is a tribute to William Tite, who was the architect of Lancaster station and Joseph Locke, the engineer for the building of the Lancaster & Carlisle Railway.

 

On the wall, is a rather nice collection of their various hats.

 

As for the beer, Rattlin’ Bog brewed by Northern Monkey scores very highly. 

 

 

The final pub listed in the Good Beer Guide is the Three Mariners, which is actually a Robinsons pub, so a very fitting place to finish up. 

 

 

The ale offering is the usual suspects from Robinsons plus 4 guest beers, so I opt for the Citra from Oakham, one of my favourite beers.

 

Old Tom is also available, so we have to stay to try that as well.

 

Will that be the final beer of the evening? Of course not, we’re staying at a pub with 10 real ales. The White Knight brewed by Goff’s in the Sun is therefore imbibed.

 

Manchester Wander

 

I can’t decide what to have for breakfast, so end up ordering smoked kippers and also bubble & squeak, with a side of crispy bacon!

 

Despite this severe over indulgence, Fintan and I still manage to get the Station in time for our 11:30 train to Manchester, in fact we’re half an hour early. Phil is long gone, on his way back to Wales.

 

Today, I’m wearing my blue High Peak, Tameside & NE Cheshire CAMRA Branch polo-shirt.

 

The Tite and Lock opens one minute late, but we manage to squeeze one last beer in in Lancaster before catching the train.

 

Fintan has some time to kill before flying back to Dublin, so the idea is to show him some pubs in Manchester, specifically those taking part in the excellent Winter Warmer Wander organised by Stockport CAMRA and High Peak CAMRA.

 

The pubs taking part will have a stout, porter or seasonal ale above 4.3% ABV available, and drinkers collect stickers (issued by CAMRA) to win prizes of beer and apparel.

 

We decide to get off at Oxford Road and head for the Paramount first, a huge Wetherspoons on Oxford Street. The Brewdolph from Brightside was a bit tired (not as tired as me though).

 

Following the Waterhouse, another Wetherspoons (Photophobic Stout from Brightside - excellent) and the City Arms (Synergy from Ossett and Cocoa Wonderland from Thornbridge - both very good), it’s time for Fintan to go home, so he leaves me to it.

        

My Wonderful Life

 

Just me left standing then?

 

In the course of the late afternoon / early evening, it’s amazing how many fellow Winter Warmer Wanderers I encounter, particularly given the size of Manchester.

 

At the Marble Arch, I have their Orange and Nutmeg Porter, which is just plain wrong. About as good an idea as me still being out and about after the weekend I’ve had.

 

After having my tea at the superb Kabana (keema peas and chicken tikka), I end up in the Millstone on Thomas Street. 5pm Monday and it’s standing room only with the karaoke in full swing. Even the Wetherspoons’ I visited earlier weren’t this busy. There simply can’t be a busier pub in Manchester this evening.

 

And they have Lees Plum Porter on, which is outstanding.

 

If anyone were to ask me, “what do you mean by a proper pub”, I’d send them to the Millstone.

 

The roof erected over Thomas Street for the Chanel fashion event at the weekend is still there, but real life goes on in the Millstone, and what a life.

 

It’s a wonderful life, it really is. Stockport County, ale, good company and great food.

 

The Millstone is an unbelievably happy place. The karaoke is beamed onto every screen so that all drinkers can sing along if they wish.

 

You’d expect this to be an old persons’ pub, but no, there are young and old happily mixing and chatting. It has a real beer festival vibe, which is no bad thing.

 

This is important. Pubs are important. We must support them.

 

Time to go. Coat on, bag located. But just as I push the door, my name is called for the karaoke. Bag down, coat off, Minnie the Moocher, run for it!

 

Next up, 3 nights in Nottingham - see you there!

 

 

Man in a Hat