Blood and Glory by Man in a Hat
Blood and Glory (Shrewsbury 2024)
I haven’t been to Shrewsbury for over 10 years.
Bizarrely, this was on the way to Wellington to watch Stockport lose to Telford 2-0 in the National League North. That Telford trip was my first ever attempt to chronicle my exploits as a retired County Supporter now able to stay over when travelling away.
However, before I retired, Shrewsbury was always somewhere we’d stay at least 2 nights when following County, despite it being just over an hour on the train. Ditto Hereford and Chester. Good times, but all undocumented.
As for the Telford trip back in February 2014, it’s still on the hedgegrower site, and you can read it here:- https://hedgegrower.blogspot.com/2014/02/telford-promised-land.html (it’s very short, I promise - when did I get so verbose?).
This was the trip where, on the Friday night, I mistook a boarded-up pub called the Kings Head for the pub I was staying in (the Cock Hotel), and when my key wouldn’t work, Pete the Landlord had to come and fetch me. It was a mere 2 minute walk away!
This time, I’m going by train with Stafford Monday 30th September, and staying 2 nights in the Castle Vaults near the station, which serves real ale of course.
Fintan is coming over from Dublin via Birmingham airport, is also staying at the Vaults, and we’ll meet him in the Armoury on the banks of the River Severn for lunch. The Armoury should have 7 ales on, including the dark stuff.
Aside from the game, we have 10 pubs that feature in the 2025 Good Beer Guide (yes, it’s already out - https://shop1.camra.org.uk/product/the-good-beer-guide-2025/) to explore, and, time permitting, a further 12 pubs that I’ve “short-listed”.
Should the opportunity arise, we may visit Shrewsbury Castle and also the Prison, just as tourists, naturally.
Phil is staying over Tuesday night, so we’ll meet him at his digs for some pre-match drinks, and Sam is planning to meet us in the ground, as he’s not staying over.
I’ve only managed to get to 2 games so far this season, both wearing the Peaky Blinders hat, which now has a record of won one, lost one, but as the loss was at home to Leyton Orient, I’m dusting off the Bobbleless Blue Hat for this trip.
You don’t need telling that the Bobbleless Blue single-handedly won County the League Two Championship last season, with an unbelievable record of played 24; won 18; drawn 5 and lost 1, an average of 2.46 points a game!
So, better late than never, here is the tale of Blood and Glory!
Basking in Former Glories
So, it’s the bus into Stockport, up the lift, through Viaduct Park in the pouring rain, and into Bask for a coffee pending Stafford’s arrival.
I’m wearing my 2008 Wembley Winners polo-shirt.
A few weeks ago, Bask was the venue for an Evening with Dave Jones, an event organised by the Supporters’ Co-operative.
Hosted by Steve Bellis, this was a very enjoyable event, and very well attended, raising a significant sum for The Christie.
During the break, I managed to ask Jones if he remembered bumping into us at a Service Station on the way back from the Southampton game. Our coach had broken down and we were waiting for a replacement.
Dave remembered the night well, as the Club agreed to take the women and children with them, leaving us chaps trying to keep warm by playing football on the carpark using a balloon.
I eventually got home at 6am, just as the Post Office on the corner of my street was opening, so I bought all of the papers as County were on the back page of all of them - what a night! Luckily, I was working shifts at the time, so I did manage to get a little sleep before heading into work (not an issue these days).
Anyway, the next event the Supporters’ Co-op are arranging is a night with Andy Preece, which is being held at the Spinning Top Wednesday 20th November, full details can be found here:- https://www.seetickets.com/event/an-evening-with-andy-preece/the-spinning-top/3186705
The Troops Gather at the Armoury
Fintan’s train from Birmingham Airport has been cancelled due to flooding, so he’s on a replacement bus to Wolverhampton. Welcome to England Fintan!
Our train is unaffected, so we’re soon sat in the Armoury in Shrewsbury with Fintan, having already checked in at the Castle Vaults.
Whilst the Armoury isn’t in the Good Beer Guide, the real ale is plentiful, and it does a wide range of food.
I start off with the Loophole, brewed by Clun, and very good it is too. The first always is I suppose.
We’re sat in the window and can see the Welsh Bridge, which we’ve just walked past. We comment to the staff that the river (Severn) looks very high, who pooh-pooh the idea, telling us that height is nothing!
Could the game be in jeopardy? Absolutely not according to the locals.
The cheeseboard I’m having for lunch makes me feel like I’m at a beer festival. Ironically, the Shrewsbury Beer Festival was last weekend. Thank goodness I didn’t spot that, otherwise I’d have ended up in Shrewsbury for 6 nights instead of 2.
When eating cheese, there’s only one thing to drink, stout, the Blackheath Stout from Fixed Wheel to be precise - excellent.
Although the Armoury comes across as being food-led, the bar staff are very knowledgeable about the ales. This is clearly a very well-run establishment, worthy of being in the Good Beer Guide in my opinion. However, Shrewsbury is a very tough competition, so I expect anywhere that is in the Guide to be exceptional.
Back into England
Stafford is off exploring, so Fintan and I head for Montgomery’s Tower, the local offering from Wetherspoons (not in the Good Beer Guide).
The venue is rather unremarkable, although there is plenty of stuff on the walls regarding famous Salopians, and the beer is pretty good, Eclipse brewed by Maxim.
We’re now off to my favourite pub in Shrewsbury, the Three Fishes, which is in the Good Beer Guide. It will be great to visit again after so long. SHUT!
The plan for this afternoon is to pick off the pubs which are over the English Bridge, as they are all a bit spread out, and we have plenty of time.
On our way to the Cross Foxes, we spot the Henry Tudor Inn, which is on my reserve list, so in we go. When are we going to try a pub in The Guide?
This is a Joules pub, so I’m on the Slumbering Monk, which is very nice.
This is a genuine Grade 1 Listed building, as you can see.
The weather is nowhere near as bad as forecast, just a light drizzle, as we head over the English Bridge to our first Good Beer Guide pub of the day, the Cross Foxes.
This is the best Draught Bass I’ve ever drunk! It’s half past four on a Monday and the place is very busy, great to see. No wonder this place is in The Guide.
Further into England is the Prince of Wales, another Good Beer Guide pub. According to the CAMRA website, the pub doesn’t open until 5pm, but boozing on a Monday is a perilous business these days, with many pubs not opening at all.
The Dark Mild from Hobsons is excellent and goes perfectly with proper Black Country Scratchings, which are available as normal and denture-friendly versions.
Fintan is so impressed with the scratchings, he buys some to take back to Dublin, and Fintan knows his pig, I can tell you.
There is quite a lot of Shrewsbury Town memorabilia about, including pictures of the old Gay Meadow, greatly missed by all, including me, but I think these pictures illustrate why The Shrews had to move.
The lady behind the bar informs me that there is some of the old seating from Gay Meadow around the pub’s bowling green out back, but for some reason I forget to look. I mean, blimey, the mild is only 3.2%, what’s wrong with me?
The weather is starting to more closely resemble the forecast, so I head to the bar to order a taxi to the Abbey, which should have 10 ales, and where we intend to eat.
At the bar I encounter Mark, who says he’ll take us if we stay for another. As I’ve no issue with drinking more of the mild, it’s a deal.
Also stood at the bar is a local CAMRA Member, which affords me the opportunity to ask why the Admiral Benbow (my second favourite pub in Shrewsbury behind the Three Fishes) is no longer in the Good Beer Guide.
He tells me that it’s because it doesn’t open 7 days a week. Seems unlikely to me.
Mark, from Kerry, gives us a lift to the Abbey, where I start off on more Hobsons, this time the Twisted Spire, which is very good, as is the White Rat brewed by Ossett.
I know we ate here, but I have no idea what I had, as for some reason I didn’t make a note of it, and I certainly can’t remember now, almost 2 months later!
Bloody Hell
What I do remember is that we watched Shelbourne FC, Fintan’s Dublin team,( who I’ve been following ever since James Gannon concluded his career there), on Fintan’s mobile device.
Shelbourne are in with a strong shout of winning the Irish Premier Division (they play a summer season ending in November), but they get beaten tonight 3-2 by St. Patricks, having come back from 2-0 down to 2-2. Never mind, they’re still top by a decent margin. (Footnote - Shels did eventually win the title with a goal 5 minutes from time in the final game of the season and will now play in the Champions League).
So, it’s back to the Castle Vaults to try the ales on offer there before calling it a day.
The Lemon Dream from Salopian is just good. I say just good, as in CAMRA circles, I’m talking about a score of 3 out of 5, which is the minimum standard for Good Beer Guide consideration. This is the lowest score I’ve given today - what an ale town Shrewsbury is!
I finish off with Flipside, brewed by Stonehouse, which is better. Or at least I thought that would be my final drink, but Fintan insists on buying malt whiskey.
Somehow, I need to get to the second floor, and fail miserably, tripping up the first step and falling flat on my face, my beautiful face! I actually see stars. I thought that was just something you got in cartoons. Hold on, maybe this isn’t real and I’m only dreaming.
Upon entering my room, a fat lip and a bloodied beard are observed in the mirror. I really must calm down. Surely in my 63rd year I should have discovered the art of self-control by now? I blame Fintan!
The Morning After the Night Before
There is no breakfast available at the Castle, so no alarm. Therefore, I don’t wake up until 11am.
Blood on the pillows. Shower. Blood on the towels.
Upon reviewing progress yesterday, I realise that we only managed to pick off 3 Good Beer Guide pubs and 3 others, including the Castle Vaults. Thankfully we’ll have all day Wednesday to try to redeem ourselves, as we’re booked on the 17:50 train back to Stockport.
Today, I’ll be wearing my 1999 tour of the Isle of Man sweatshirt, as it could be a bit nippy tonight. Hopefully nobody will notice my fat lip and I won’t have to explain myself.
Shrewsbury is basically 90% surrounded by the River Severn, and we’ll be staying on what I call the island today, aside from going to the match of course, which is a 20-minute bus journey away.
As I leave, I encounter 3 familiar faces who are also staying at the Castle Vaults. It’s still before 12. I think this is the first time I’ve ever seen them without a beer in their hands.
As arranged, I meet Fintan in Cromwell’s Tap House, which is in the Good Beer Guide and should be serving food. This is also where Phil is staying, who should arrive shortly.
My first words to Fintan “no whiskey tonight!” Fintan’s first words to me “have you been in a fight?” I try to explain myself.
I’m on the excellent Black Knight from Ludlow. What a great start to match day.
For lunch, I opt for the Blue Swimmer Crab & Lemon Cream Cheese Fishcakes. Stafford has also joined us, having decided not to pop to Church Stretton (what was he thinking?). Phil has also duly arrived.
The Black Knight has run out, so I try the Galaeth from Monty’s, which is almost as good.
Just around the corner is the Nag’s Head, also in the Good Beer Guide. The Yorkshire Blonde from Ossett is superb, bordering on perfect.
Chatting with the locals, it appears that the Beer Festival went well.
Phil reminds me that County played Ossett in the FA Trophy - and won 6-0. Surely a good omen for this evening.
Fishes Have Turned into Tiddlers?
At last, we find the Three Fishes open, my favourite pub in Shrewsbury. But hold on, what’s happened? Just 2 ales to choose from. Ok, the beer, brewed by Only With Love, is very good, but back in the day you’d expect to see 5 or 6 ales to choose from.
The regulars in the Nag’s Head had warned us that the Fishes isn’t what it used to be. This place always used to be top of my list, but now it isn’t even top out of the pubs we’ve tried so far this trip, or even today. How long can the Three Fishes hold onto its GBG status?
However, we do bump into some of the Blue Army.
Fintan asks me how many beer scores I’ve submitted to CAMRA’s National Beer Scoring System since its introduction.
Well, at the time of writing this, I can report that I have submitted 6,452 scores. My first was on Wednesday 17th April 2013, which was at the Jackson’s Arms in Hartlepool where I scored the Golden XPA brewed by Caledonian as 4 out of 5.
I was in Hartlepool to see County, but we weren’t playing Hartlepool, we were playing Gateshead in the National League the evening before.
Although County drew the game 1-1 thanks to a 93rd minute equaliser scored by Adnan Cirak (SCAN 1344), we went on to get relegated to National League North with 50 points, the most points any team had ever been relegated with.
The next pub is Loggerheads, again a very short walk away. The Young’s London Special is very good.
This is a great boozer, which is usually in the Good Beer Guide, but for whatever reason, it’s not in the 2025 version. In fairness, although there are 4 ales, they’re all a bit samey, hence me ending up on the Young’s.
The interior is
regarded by CAMRA as being of outstanding national historical importance. Here
is a picture of the “Gents Only Room”.
If you’d like to find out more, click here:- https://camra.org.uk/pubs/loggerheads-shrewsbury-144919
Our next stop is the Admiral Benbow, which opens at 5pm, and is named after the 17thCentury Admiral, who was actually born in Shrewsbury. There are pubs called the Admiral Benbow in Penzance (obviously) and Chapel St Leonards, just north of Skegness (I’ve no idea why).
We’re a little early, so not for the first time, or the last, I find myself waiting outside a pub for it to open, which always attracts pleasingly disapproving glances.
The Gold brewed by Ludlow is really excellent. This place really should be in the Good Beer Guide.
Signage indicates the availability of scotch eggs, which I can never turn down, but there is none - what a tease!
No Pie, but Enjoy the Pye
Anyway, the plan is to eat at the Old Post Office, where we’ll now meet Uncle Sam. The Eagle IPA is very nice, as are the faggots and peas.
Sam shows up, but Stafford is still missing in action. We were going to get the bus to the ground, but as Sam isn’t staying over, he gives us a lift, including Stafford, who eventually shows up.
Bemoaning the lack of pie in the ground, Sam has to settle for a sausage roll. Although we can’t have pie, we can still enjoy Pye, I tell him. Not even a snigger. I’m wasted on these people I tells ya, that was comedy gold!
Stafford has tuned in to Radio Shropshire for match commentary, so he’s happy enough.
Sam had predicted that County would win 4-0, so I suppose he was half right. Another victory for the Blue Bobbleless Hat.
Fintan ended up by being captured by some bandit or other.
After the game, Sam drops us back at the Castle, where I try the Lemon Dream by Salopian, which is ok, but then we get sent to bed at 10:30! This wasn’t the plan when we decided to stay at a pub. However, this means I’ll be dodging the malt whiskey, so the barman may have actually saved my life!
Wetherspoons is close by, but we can’t be bothered. I safely negotiate the stairs and am soon fast asleep, dreaming about Championship football.
Mission Impossible?
I seem to be developing a bit of a black eye, and my lip is still swollen and bloody.
There is no Teletext on the TV, so I’m unable to check the League One Table. My room is really spacious, with both a double and a single bed.
I should have let Stafford have this room really, as he’s ended up on the third floor. However, it just wasn’t safe enough, as there was a service stairway right next to the door, which he could easily have fallen down. Well, that’s my excuse anyway.
I’ve finished my County duties, so today is full-on CAMRA, hence I’m wearing my bright orange High Peak, Tameside & North East Cheshire branch polo-shirt. This is also for Stafford’s benefit of course.
Arrangements have been made for us to leave our bags at the Castle Vaults, specifically, inside the DJ Booth.
Can we mop up the rest of the pubs on my list in the time remaining? Our train leaves at 17:50 - cue the theme of Mission Impossible in the background. Click here to listen:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGSUjuSBt1A
One of the remaining Good Beer Guide pubs is the Shrewsbury Hotel, which is a Wetherspoons, so we can get off to an early start, and have some breakfast to boot.
The Market Porter, brewed by Portobello, is a nice start to proceedings.
The Shrewsbury Hotel offers accommodation, and I’ve stayed here a few times when following County, as it’s very handy for the bus to the ground, and you can be confident you’ll not get sent to bed at 10:30.
Through the window, we can see some of the Blue Army, wandering around aimlessly. Some I recognise from Ye Olde Vic, but I guess that doesn’t narrow it down very much does it?
As we leave, I pick up the leaflet detailing the Wetherspoons Beer Festival which runs from October 9th - 20th. 30 ales to try.
We’ve already walked past another pub that features in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, the Salopian Bar, which was closed of course, but will be open now. The Obsidian brewed by Magic Dragon is excellent.
It’s raining again, so we stay for another - we haven’t really got time for these delays. Never mind, the next pub is just around the corner, through the secret passageway.
This is the Kings Head, where we find a lovely dark mild, which turns out to be the same one we had in the Prince of Wales on Monday. Whilst it’s not quite as good as the Prince, it’s still a very nice drink indeed.
It’s about 1pm and Stafford has finally tracked us down - he can sniff out a good dark mild from 2 towns over.
Inside the Kings Head is a medieval painting, discovered in 1987 during the pub being refurbished.
Time Warped
We’ve now got a bit of a walk, albeit along the River Severn, in order to try out another pub in the Good Beer Guide, the Woodman, which is on the far side of the station. Stafford tags along.
We are rewarded with an ale from Saltaire called Dr Rudi, which is amazing.
The Woodman has all of the local papers available, and the Shropshire Star (the County edition) carries a brief report of the game on the back page.
Bizarrely, there is also a copy of tomorrow’s Shrewsbury Chronicle, with no mention of the game at all. I check the racing pages for today’s results, but no sign of them either.
The first beer was so good we stay for another, as we’ve convinced ourselves we’re ahead of schedule. Not to mention there is also cheese & onion baguettes to keep us going (served on a saucer). The Hop Twister from Salopian is almost as good as Dr Rudi.
Stafford is off back to
the Armoury in a taxi and we head next door to the Royal Oak. Stafford has
therefore missed out on a rather nice stout, the Time Warp, brewed by Wilde
Child.
The Oak, which is a Black County Ales pub, not only has 6 real ales, but also 3 real ciders. Should probably be in the Good Beer Guide, but what can you do if you’re a local CAMRA Member when you’re only allowed to put 10 pubs in. Those selection meetings must be a nightmare.
There is only time for one more venue, and we’ve deliberately left the Tap & Cask until last, which is the closest to the Station, next door to the Castle Vaults, and in the Good Beer Guide. The other reason we haven’t visited already, is that it doesn’t open Mondays & Tuesdays and doesn’t open until 5pm weekdays.
This place is a very modern beer drinking venue and is the sort of place that have started to describe as “keg-led”. There is real ale, but the vast majority are keg beers, including sour beers, which I have to confess, I just don’t get.
Anyway, I try the Squidly Diddly, a cask beer brewed by Northdown, which is remarkably good, hugely exceeding my expectations.
Regrettably, there is time to try the Wrath of Tyrant, a keg beer brewed by Holy Goat. This is an 11% ABV imperial stout fermented with Norwegian Kveik (yeast) and brewed with nine different malts and a blend of demerara and muscovado sugars. That’s all I need!
Somehow, we still manage to get the train, Fintan having left slightly earlier to get the 17:28 service to Birmingham Airport.
Ten Out of Ten
So, how did we get on?
We manged to visit all 10 of the pubs in Shrewsbury that feature in the 2025 Good Beer Guide, and also 10 of the other 12 pubs I’d short-listed.
It’s been a great tour, and County won. It’s a good job we ticked everything off, as from what I saw on the pitch, I doubt County will be returning to Shrewsbury any time soon.
What Next?
I’m hoping that Bristol will be the next stop-over trip, but as that falls on the weekend that the third round of the FA Cup will be played, only preliminary research has been done so far.
Should either Rovers or County still be in the Cup, the game will be rescheduled. Logically, it should simply be played Tuesday 14th January, but we’ll just have to wait and see
Man-in-a-Hat
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